35mm · Film photography · Photography

The Nuns’ Valley

Perhaps the biggest outing I had during our holiday in Madeira was a trip I took to the Nuns’ Valley where the village of Curral das Freiras nestles amongst the mountains. The valley is so-named after the nun’s who retreated there as it was out of sight from the coastline and the threat of passing pirates.

I had originally planned on booking an excursion, but then found I could DIY it for much less money by simply catching a bus! I forget how much the excursion would have cost, but the bus fare was around three Euro each way, so a noticeable saving.

So, after working out which bus I needed to catch, and where in Funchal I needed to catch it, I decided to take the trip on the last day of June.

The bus took a route through the centre of Funchal before rising up into the outskirts and residential areas on the steep hillsides, often following roads that you might not expect a bus to fit – but it obviously did. From there it rose into the mountains, one moment through thick and steeply sloped woodland, then next alongside vertiginous drops to the valleys below.

While Curral das Freiras was my destination, for this trip it would very much be a case of the journey being the destination as well as, rather than going directly to the village, my plan was to leave the bus at Eira do Serrado, the location of a scenic mountain-top viewpoint. From there I would follow the mountain path 1,300 feet down to the village below.

Before I began my descent, and after a quick refreshment break in the small hotel and shop that sits at the peak, I first walked to the scenic viewpoint. On the way I met a curious chap playing an accordion and wearing a flag-bedecked hat. As I approached he asked where I was from. “The UK”, I said, and he began to sing me a song. I gave him a few Euro in thanks and asked if I could take his picture.

Black and white music man

The viewpoint itself was both spectacular and fear inducing. An amazing view out across the mountains and down into the valley floor, albeit with a vertigo inducing sense or terror when I looked over the waist high fence to a drop of maybe a thousand feet! After (very carefully) enjoying the view for ten minutes, I made my way back down the path to the hotel area. The accordion man asked again where I was from – I clearly made little impression before!

The two pictures below were made from the viewpoint and the path back to the hotel.

Nun's Valley
Across the gulf

Past the hotel I found the top of the hiking trail and began my descent. The trail followed a zig zag down the mountainside, but the first section ran through a stand of trees where the air was refreshingly cooler – the day of my visit featured empty blue skies and a hot sun that gradually brought more of the valley into light as the morning progressed. Part of me wished for more cloud to add some (literal) atmosphere but I guess I was lucky in a way as, while I find empty blue skies uninspiring, they were probably preferable to the low cloud I had seen enveloping the mountaintops on other days and which would have both completely obscured the view and, worse, required me to descend the path in what would effectively be fog.

The path was cut from natural rock in places, and in others paved with placed stones. Sometimes the angle was gentle, sometimes steep. There was an occasional section with a wire guard-line, but it crossed my mind numerous times that a trip or loss of footing might easily see my rapidly stumbling out of control and into nothingness.

At one stage I was a little worried that the path might take me on a precipitous looking ledge hugging a cliffside, but thankfully not. You can get and idea of my concern from the picture below.

Lone tree on a mountainside

As I descended, the village below grew from tiny specks of white to recogniseable buildings, as seen in the next two pictures. I did shoot quite a few colour frames during the hike but I’m not satisfied with how most of them look. The one below is ok though. If you look closely at the bottom right of the frame, you can see a small rest area with a bench and viewpoint about halfway down the mountainside. The next picture was taken from the rest area if I remember correctly.

Curral das Freiras
Lower down

As the descent continued, so the trail began to pass through more wooded areas. There was also one section with thousands of bees flying all around. Thankfully they were just interested in going about their business rather than the sweaty englishman passing among them.

I walked with another English couple during this lower stretch of the path, and it was nice to share the experience with others. I also passed at least two other couples walking up the trail from the bottom, which must be a real feat of endurance.

As I got down into the valley floor I took some pictures looking back up at the mountainside, and from where I had come. In the first picture you can just make out the hotel up at the viewpoint and the path zig-zagging below.

Looking back
More mountainside trees

I’ll finish the post off with a couple of pictures I took in Curral das Freiras itself. The village is small and mostly quiet with a few touristy shops and restaurants (in one of which I treated myself to a nice piece of cake and a very welcome ice-cold drink) and is apparently famous for it’s chestnut dishes. I spent an hour or so wandering around the place, looking inside the church (which has a lovingly kept graveyard where all the graves feature an inlaid photograph of their occupants), before making my way to the bus back to Funchal.

I sat across from the couple I’ve shared the descent with, who it turned out were staying in a hotel not far from ours, although they were heading home the following day. Sadly, as I was facing backwards, I felt somewhat travel-sick by the time I arrived back in Funchal, but not enough to place a cloud over the experience.

Old house at the bottom
Church tower

And so we come to the end om my Madeira pictures (unless I dig out some more I like at some point). Now to get on with the rest of my growing backlog…

Olympus Trip 35 & Fujifilm Across II. Ilfotec DD-X 1+4 9mins @ 20°

Taken 30 June 2026.

35mm · Film photography · Photography

Ronaldo

As mentioned briefly yesterday, another draw for visitors in Funchal is the Christiano Ronaldo museum, or – perhaps more specifically – the bronze statue of the man standing outside.

I’m not a big football fan and mostly pay little attention to the game outside of major tournaments, so I can’t really say how good a likeness the statue is. It’s probably closer in resemblance when compared with the much-commented-upon bust of his head that was on display at Funchal airport.

A good likeness or not, the statue is afflicted by the same trend that many such pieces are, namely the need for people to touch them, particularly in places that might be seen as a little risque were it and actual living person (or, indeed animal – the bull in New York’s Wall Street has been similarly fondled), resulting in considerable amounts of brassing. 😀

Apart from walking past a couple of times just to say I’d “been there”, I didn’t venture into the museum (or touch up the statue, for that matter). There were a number of people present having their photos taken with it on each occasion I was there though.

At the Ronaldo museum
At the Ronaldo statue

Here he is in all his glory…

Olympus Trip 35 & Fujifilm Across II. Ilfotec DD-X 1+4 9mins @ 20°

Colour shot: Nikon F70, Nikkor 28-80mm f.3.5-5.6 AF-D & Kodak Portra 160 . Lab developed. Home scanned and converted with Negative Lab Pro

Taken 2 July 2026.

35mm · Film photography · Photography

Up to Monte Palace and a sledge ride back down

Perhaps the most famous activity in Funchal – even moreso that visiting the Ronaldo statue – is the sledge rides.

So, one day during our trip, we decided to have a go. The rides run from a place called Monte, which is high above Funchal (about 550 metres or 1800 feet) and can be reached by a cable-car ride (you can get a bus or taxi too, but where’s the fun in that?). I think my wife might have preferred an alternate mode of transport though as she spent the entire ride up looking at the roof of the car to avoid seeing the drop, clutching my hand tightly whenever the car went over one of the pylons!

Below are a couple of picture of the cable-cars from the station at Monte.

Cable cars
Cable car station

You can go straight to the sledges from the cable-cars, but right outside the station is the entrance to Monte Palace and its beautiful gardens, so we went in there first.

The gardens are glorious, packed with lush vegetation and footpaths that wind around up and down through the steep hillside terrain. There are pools, fountains, ponds and water features dotted around giving the whole place a cool and refreshing feel.

We didn’t go inside the palace (which can be seen in the picture below), but it holds a commanding spot on the mountainside.

Monte Palace gardens - landscape

The gardens had a large number of birds, including swans and flamingos. There were also large numbers of fish in the ponds, including a number of pools with glass sides in this east-Asian themed section of the garden.

Pagoda

Looking back up to the palace.

Lush

After exploring the gardens, we set off to find the sledges. We soon realised we were on the right track when we saw them whizzing past on the road we were climbing.

Funchal toboggan

The Monte Sledges have become one of the most recognisable sights on Madeira, offering a memorable experience that is pretty unique.

The toboggans* first appeared in the 19th century, when people living up in the parish of Monte – about 500 metres above Funchal – used them as a quick way to get down to the city. What started as everyday transport has since turned into one of the region’s best‑known traditions.

* are they toboggans, or sledges? What is the difference? I maybe ought to look it up… [goes and checks online…] Aha! They are actually sledges. Sledges travel on runners, whereas a toboggan runs on a flat base with a curved lip at the front. I have learned something new today!

Back to the story…

Each of the sledges are still made by hand from wicker and wood by local craftsmen. The ride itself is guided by two drivers, called carreiros, dressed in white with straw hats, who steer and brake using the thick rubber soles of their boots.

The route runs down very steep roads for about a mile and takes about ten minutes in total, starting in Monte and finishing halfway down the hill. There’s a definite sense of jeopardy involved, with the sledge at times drifting sideways down the roads and sometimes coming very close to narrow, but deep, drainage channels that run along parts of the route. It’s probably the way my mind works, but it was very easy to picture the whole shebang hitting a pothole and flipping over sideways at speed as we hurtled down the streets!

I’m sure it’s very safe though, and we did reach the bottom unscathed, having enjoyed the ride immensely (the carreiros clearly know their stuff). It’s a very memorable and fun experience, combining the thrills with glorious views down the mountainside into Funchal and out to the expanse of the Atlantic beyond.

At the end of the ride you can buy souvenirs – including theme-park-style photos of your expressions from partway down the hill! The end of the route is still high above Funchal town so a bus or taxi is needed (unless you fancy the walk). The taxis are not cheap, so timing the ride with the buses would have been a good idea.

The best part about the end of the ride though, was seeing how the carreiros get back up the hill again…

Toboggan drivers

Olympus Trip 35 & Fujifilm Superia 100 (expired in 2008). Lab developed. Home scanned and converted with Negative Lab Pro

Taken 29 June 2026.

35mm · Film photography · Photography

Câmara de Lobos

The photos in today’s post are from a trip I took to the fishing village of Câmara de Lobos near Funchal. I took the bus which dropped me off about a quarter of a mile from the village, leaving a walk past a power station and then along a scenic coastal path overloking the Atlantic, and then views of the village and the coastline to the west.

The large sea cliff you can see in this first shot is Cabo Girão, the highest promontory in Europe at 580 metres. Where it peaks in the middle of the frame is a glass bottomed viewing platform should you feel the need for excitement.

A view of Cape Girão

Before reaching the village proper there are a few rocky areas that can be accessed, including thsi one containing a swimming pool. There was a lifeguard present, but no-one was swimming at this point.

Empty pool

The harbour was filled with small colourful boats. I also noticed a wooden frame on the rocky shore with things hanging from it, which I thought might be clothes.

Little boats in the harbour

There was a festival due to take place in the village and the whole place was decorated with colourful bunting and displays. Upon closer inspection it became apparent that most of these were made of recycled materials such as plastic bottles and plastic sheeting. It looked very nice.

Feira
Recycled bunting

Looking out into the habour from the village, I could just make out a banner strung across reading “Festas de Sao Pedro”. I’m sure this looked far more impressive after dark.

On the day of the festival

The harbour wall was also home to a small lighthouse.

Camara de Lobos lighthouse
Red door to the lighthouse

The village also had a number of colourful narrow streets which were good to explore and photograph.

Overhead tangle
Figure on a street
Plant pot house
Pastel side street
Narrow uphill

One of the streets was decorated by suspended umbrellas, providing both colour and shade.

Red umbrellas

I photographed a couple of cars too. One of the island’s distinctive yellow taxis, and a Beetle. I always seem to photograph VW Beetle’s when I see them.

Waiting for a fare
I always stop for a Beetle

Past the harbour and the lighthouse a road led to a beach with the looming cliffs beyond. The beach was not sandy however, instead being composed of large grey pebbles which didn’t look like they would be comfortable to lay on (although some people were!).

Big fish on the seashore

After a pleasant morning wandering around the place, I set off back for the bus. Before leaving the village I had to satisfy my curiosity about the wooden frame I’d seen earlier. It seems it was also part of the decorations for the festival, with jackets of recycled plastic hung from it.

Drying

The swimming pool also now had visitors…

Pool or sea

Nikon F70, Nikkor 28-80mm f.3.5-5.6 AF-D & Fujifilm Superia 100 (expired 2008). Lab developed. Home scanned and converted with Negative Lab Pro

Taken 27 June 2026.

35mm · Film photography · Photography

Gathered Leaves

My plan for today had originally been to meet up with a bunch of other photographers for a wander around a midlands heritage museum. Alas though, due to the continuing hot weather, it was decided it was best to postpone until later in the summer. So, with time on my hands, I decided to drive instead to Newark where I knew there was an exhibition on featuring the work of a photographer whose work I enjoy: Paul Hart.

The Gathered Leaves exhibition is in the newly opened Vibrant Matter gallery, and details can be found here. While there were some framed prints from artists featured, the exhibition was focused on publications rather than prints – you can see where it got it’s title – and I browsed most of what were on display as well as having a nice chat with the owner, Daniel Rapley, whose work was also on display (in the shape of experimental images formed from found photographic images, creating a colourful and eyecatching display of overlaid scenes. There was a feeling of Christopher Nolan’s Inception in some images, where inverted cities loomed above foreground figures). While there were a number of photography books present, the scope was wider, and there were publications dealing with more experimental art, design, and typography.

After my visit to the gallery I wandered around Newark taking pictures of my own, finally finishing a roll of Kodak Pro Image that’s been in my Olympus XA-3 for a couple of months now, as well as starting on rolls of Portra 160 (which I’d forgotten was in my camera bag – not sure how long it’s been cooking in there. It’s a good job Portra doesn’t cost much, eh..?), Ektar (in my Yashica Mat 124 G), and some expired Ilford Delta 400 in my Olympus OM-10). I took a new camera bag with me which has space for more stuff. I’m not sure if that is a good or bad thing just yet…

Newark is a nice place to wander around. The architecture is pretty, with lots of charming red-brick buildings, a colourful market square, the River Trent, and the ruins of a castle (although it is currently undergoing some sort of renovation so could only really be viewed from across the river).

I also bought myself a new book from a used book seller in the market. They had a few photography books, but none that really interested me, so I bought a book on the life of Edward Seago which is full of his beautiful paintings. I first came across his work while admiring the work of fellow blogger -N- on her Ink, Yarn, and Beers blog. She’s posted about being inspired by Seago’s work on more than one occasion, and I thank her for bringing it to my attention. Go check out her blog and her lovely paintings.

Because all my pictures from Newark today were shot on film, I don’t yet have any to show, so here’s a picture from a previous visit back in 2022. I shot a very similar image today!

Floating pub

RETO Ultrawide & Slim & Kodak Gold 200

Taken on 18 March 2022

Digital · Photography

Still hot

It’s a whole degree cooler than yesterday’s 33.9°C in my home office today. That’s still over ten degrees hotter than I’d like it to be.

My expensive new fan arrived this morning, and is doing a decent job of taking the edge off the heat, but it’s not an air conditioner and there’s only so much that moving air flow can achieve, so it still feels oppressive and it’s been pretty hard to get motivated while working today.

Thankfully the temperatures are forecast to begin dropping over the weekend to a much more manageable mid-20s range (and, more importantly, overnight temps below 20°C, so there’s a chance to open the windows and flush out the hot air).

The sub-tropical climate of Madeira felt more manageable than this, mostly due to infrastructure designed to deal with it – air-con, tiled floors, window-shutters and the like, most of which go against the standard UK building methods that are designed to keep heat inside. If the summer temperatures in the UK continue to rise in future, then there is going to be a real need for change to prevent severe disruption.

But anyway, this is meant to be a photography blog, not an essay on climate change, so here’s another shot from the holiday. It’s another digital picture (although I have received four sheets of film negs back in the post today, so plenty of those to share too when I get around to it).

Being a Portugese territory, you’d expect to see plenty of Portugese flags in Madeira, but there were probably more than usual due to the World Cup tournament taking place while we were there (Madeira also being the birthplace of their famed striker, Christiano Ronaldo – there’s even a museum in Funchal dedicated to him). At this stage Portugal had not yet been knocked out…

Inbetween

Ricoh GRIII

Taken on 27 June 2026

Digital · Photography

Wakefield Rhubarb Festival

My wife and I visited the Wakefield Rhubarb Festival today. It’s the first time we’ve been and it was an enjoyable few hours out.

Wakefield is one of the towns that delineate the area known as the Rhubarb Triangle*, famed for producing forced rhubarb, a method of growing the vegetable in dark sheds which encourages the plants to convert carbohydrates into glucose, forming stalks with a sweetly sour taste. Rhubarb has many uses, but is often served in sweet pies and crumbles,sometimes accompanied by other fruits. Wakefield Council holds the annual festival each February.

Fresh bundles of rhubarb on one of the stalls.
More rhubarb being delivered

The event itself was somewhat akin to a Christmas market and I was surprised at how many stalls were present, along with various activities taking place, and local bars, cafe’s, and restaurants also laying on rhubarb themed food and drinks. We bought a number of items, including some orange and rhubarb marmalade (I’m on a bit of a marmalade voyage of discovery at present, having it with toast for breakfast several times a week), some rhubarb candles (which my wife will gift to a friend), a sausage and rhubarb focaccia (to be eaten tomorrow!), and some fresh stalks of rhubarb (some of which we ate with custard this evening).

Two friendly rhubarb ladies
Everywhere you looked, people had stalks of purchased rhubarb protruding from bags and backpacks.
More rhubarb purchasers
A girl with rhubarb in her hair
There was honey for sale too

As well as the stalls, there were a number of other events taking place during the event (which ran from Friday until today), including live music, arts and crafts, cooking demonstrations, various performers in rhubarb costumes, and no less than three different morris dancing groups (or sides, as I believe they are known) .

*the legal definition of the Rhubarb Triangle is apparently as follows…

“from Ackworth Moor Top north along the A628 to Featherstone and Pontefract. Then on to the A656 through Castleford. It then goes west along the A63 past Garforth and West Garforth. Head north passing Whitkirk, Manston and on towards the A6120 by Scholes. Follow the A6120 west, round to pass Farsley which then leads south west via the A647 onto the A6177. Pass Dudley Hill to pick up the M606 south. At junction 26 take the M62 south to junction 25 head east along A644 toward Dewsbury, passing Mirfield, to pick up the A638 towards Wakefield. At Wakefield take the A638 south to Ackworth Moor top.”[

Ricoh GRIII

Taken on 22 February 2026

Film photography · Medium Format · Photography

A trip to Spurn Point (part 6)

And so we reach the final set of pictures from my trip to Spurn Point.

The first three pictures are of the lifeboatmen’s (lifeboatpersons?) houses that were visible in my picture from the top of the lighthouse in yesterday’s post. They were built in 1975 and replaced the original cottages that dated to 1819. There are now no lifeboat crews based at Spurn with the service being covered from Grimsby and the new inshore lifeboat station at Cleethorpes.

Lifeboat crew houses
Lifeboat crew houses-2
Spurn Point buildings

And then a final set of pictures featuring the lighthouse. The first shot is probably my favourite of the whole trip. The Ultramax has produced some subtle but nice colours. The window at the top of the lighthouse is tinted and opens into the upper floor of the building (below the light) where there is a display on view.

Views of Spurn Point lighthouse
Views of Spurn Point lighthouse-3
Views of Spurn Point lighthouse-4
Views of Spurn Point lighthouse-5

So that’s the final post in this set. Spurn (and the Holderness coast) is somewhere I’d wanted to visit for a long time, and it’s somewhere I’d like to return to. There are lots more pictures to be had. Maybe I’ll get another chance next year.

Olympus 35 RC and Kodak Ultramax. Lab developed. Home scanned and converted with Negative Lab Pro.

Taken on 24 August 2025

Film photography · Medium Format · Photography

A trip to Spurn Point (part 5)

On to the final set of black and white photos I made at Spurn Point. Following directly on from yesterday the first two images are of the views from the top of the lighthouse. It’s not possible to go outside and you have to stand on the platform where the light itself once stood in order to see out of the windows properly, but the views are good. I actually quite like the effect of the “leading” on the glass.

This first shot is the view looking back up the spit towards the Holderness coast (where the land disappears off the left middle edge of the frame). You can see the road, plus the sandy eastern beach, and the tidal mud flats to the west.

From whence I came

Looking the other way (roughly south east) gives a view of the tip of the point with the Humber estuary and the Lincolnshire coat beyond. The road is clearly visible as it makes it’s way to the former lifeboatmen’s houses. The sea traffic tower stands in the middle of the scene, and one of the Humber sea forts can be found at upper right.

Spurn Point

Looking to the west give a view of the old lighthouse with its water tank cap. Some people were digging for bait on the mudflats and their electric bike can be seen.

The old lighthouse

After descending the steep steps of the lighthouse (not easy with a heavy backpack and a tripod!), I treated myself to an ice-cream and then set of towards the tip of the point, first following the road towards the sea traffic tower..

To the end of the land

Beyond the tower the land gives way to dunes and a series of sandy footpaths. There are numerous ex-military buildings in various states of repair in this area.

Bunker and lighthouse

As I reached the beach at the end of the point I turned round and took this photo looking back the way I’d come.

Structures

The beach at the end of the point shows clear signs of the tidal forces that come into play when the water is high, the sand sculpted into channels and craters. The fisherman who I’#’d earlier seen digging bait can also be seen putting it to use.

Tidal lands

And the final shot from this roll shows a freighter heading up the estuary past the end of the point. This is a relatively small vessel and much larger ships pass through this channel.

Alignment

The final set of Spurn Point photos to come tomorrow, this time in exciting colour! 🙂

Nikon F80, Tamron 28-300mm F/3.5-6.3 Di VC PZD on Fujifilm Acros. Ilfotec DD-X 1+4 9mins @ 20°.

Taken on 24 August 2025

Film photography · Medium Format · Photography

A trip to Spurn Point (part 4)

Other than a couple of electric bikes, the only mode of vehicular transport I saw while walking to the end of Spurn Point was this Unimog all-terrain truck, which carries passengers from the Yorkshire Wildlife Trust centre to the lighthouse.. It has to traverse the soft sands of the beach at the neck of the point until it can rejoin the remaining road that hasn’t been washed away by the sea. Here it is heading back north.

Unimog departure

There are a number of trails leading from the beach, up over the dunes, and to the road. This one looks a little overgrown.

Dune grass

After crossing the road I stuck to the western side of the spit which is mostly flat, grassy terrain with a scattering of gorse and some bird-watching shelters overlooking the tidal mud flats of the estuary.

Given the length of the walk to the end of the point, it’s good to see a bench along the way. My telephoto lens has compressed the distance a little and it’s further to the lighthouse from the bench than it might appear in this shot.

Bench on the point

Also present are the reamains of some WW2-era tank traps.

Tank trap

IAs I got closer to the lighthouse I made a number of photographs.

Lighthouse #1
Lighthouse #2
Lighthouse #3

More to come tomorrow, including views from the top of the lighthouse!

Nikon F80, Tamron 28-300mm F/3.5-6.3 Di VC PZD on Fujifilm Acros. Ilfotec DD-X 1+4 9mins @ 20°.

Taken on 24 August 2025